Restaurant Review

My Brother’s Coffee

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Issue Date 2/21/03

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Brother’s Coffee Shop
166-02 Jamaica Avenue, Jamaica
718-291-2804, 718-658-9003

Cuisine: Diner

Hours: 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., every day

Amid the hustle and bustle of one of Downtown Jamaica’s busiest stretches is an old-school diner that’s not only a nice place to wind down, but a great place to get a fresh homestyle meal, too.

Brother’s Coffee Shop, on Jamaica Avenue at 166th Street, is surrounded by competition.  Sort of.

There are fast food establishments serving processed meats and other foods all around the small diner.  But how they differ—and how Brother’s shines—is in the fact that their food is delivered in the morning in refrigerated trucks and microwaved for the lunch crowd.  Everything at Brother’s is cooked fresh and made to order.

The atmosphere is nice, too.  The faded windows and sign—a requirement for all authentic diners— is a reminder that Brother’s is a place to slow down and enjoy a meal.

And if customers are too busy to stop and smell the bacon, they can always get their meal from Brother’s delivered.  With a central location in the middle of thousands of Jamaica Center employees and a $3 minimum for deliveries, Brother’s meals are always ready to eat.

The menu is extensive.  With a 6 a.m. opening time, the breakfast menu is very popular.

There are about 15 egg sandwiches, many of them mini-omelets with bread.  They range from just $1 for a one-egg sandwich to just $3 for a two-egg omelet with different combinations of cheese, bacon, ham and sausage.

Full-size omelets are also very popular, and cheap.  About eight kinds, served with French fries and toast, cost between $2.75 and $3.99.

Breakfast specials, served between 6 a.m. and noon, make all of Brother’s breakfast choices even more affordable.  Late risers with no money finally have a place of their own.

Other breakfast items include pancakes, French toast, corned beef hash and assorted muffins and bagels.  Everything is cheap and fresh.

While Brother’s closes not long after many Jamaica Center denizens get out of work, and before many others do, the little, unassuming diner also has extensive lunch and dinner menus.

The number of choices is staggering.  There are about a dozen kinds of burgers, made with not only beef, but turkey, vegetables and chicken, too.  Bacon and pizza embellishments are popular for the burgers, which range from $2 to $5.

There is a similar number of cold sandwiches available, all under $4.  There are also about 15 hot sandwiches available, mostly in hero or “triple decker” form.  Those not on a diet should enjoy these choices, especially the pastrami, corned beef and Swiss cheese sandwich.

One unique menu section is the one with Jamaican-style cheese steaks.  Unlike the plain “Philly” variation that’s common everywhere, these lay on the spices for a hotter taste.  The BBQ Steak Hero is the best example, with gobbles of barbecue sauce and onions.

Dinner at this diner is cheap, and hearty.  Big portions of pasta are all under $5.  There are eight choices.

It’s the same story with the diner’s Spanish and Greek menus, which offer hot, aromatic dishes made mostly with meats and spices on different kinds of breads.

A traditional “entree” menu is especially representative of the fresh-meat-for-cheap theme at Brother’s.  Platefuls of chop steak, open roast beef, open corned beef, pepper steak and meat loaf, served with mashed potatoes or French fries and vegetables or salad, are all about $5.

While we can’t speak for space left in your stomach, you’ll easily have money left in your pocket after a meal at Brother’s for some dessert.  Ice cream and assorted cakes and pies baked on the premises are available for under $2 per serving.

— Shams Tarek

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