Restaurant Review

And In This Corner, Strong Italian

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Issue Date 7/18/03

Click Here For Dining Guide

Columbia Corner
138-58 Francis Lewis Boulevard
718- 528-8544

Cuisine: Italian

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday and Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. other days

There’s a restaurant in Rosedale that not only boasts “the best Italian food in south Queens,” according to its menu, but has a nice environment to enjoy it in, too.

Columbia Corner is named after both the famed Italian explorer and its geographical place in the world; not only is it in the extreme southeast corner of the borough just feet from the Nassau county border, but it’s on the corner of two major boulevards — Francis Lewis and Brookville — as well.

The spot makes for a great room to have a meal in; the one-story restaurant — a pizzeria, really — is lined with windows on two of its four sides and has two skylights in the roof.

Needless to say, the dining room is bathed in sunlight and, with its two open doors, brushed with a nice cool breeze.

Add to that the assortment of plants placed all over the room, and the effect you get is of being in a park with air-conditioning.  It’s like a greenhouse that happens to serve great pizza and pasta.

Owned by the original owners of Angelo’s, on Main Street in Flushing, Columbia Corner serves pizza and calzones like any other pizzeria, but also serves an impressive array of Italian entrees.

But start with the basics: The restaurant’s most elemental item, the $1.45 plain slice, is joined by more unique variations.  Those special slices — many with three different toppings — look like pieces of art.  Especially impressive is the two-inch-high, $4 fresh tomato-chicken-cheese slice; it’s as big as a roll and must not be taken lightly.

Another unique slice that looks so good you don’t want to eat it is the common chicken and broccoli slice; Columbia likes to cut the chicken into long strips that span the length of the square slice and, when laid in alternating strips with similarly-cut pieces of broccoli, the effect looks like some kind of national flag.

And how does the pizza taste?  Definitely better than average; the tomato sauce—the best part—is especially tart, tangy and fresh-tasting.

After considering the pizza and other pizzeria-style staples like gyros and calzones, look to the big hero menu.  There are about a dozen choices here, mostly based on chicken, veal, meatballs or shrimp.

Plain pastas area also available, for $7 or less per order.

But it’s in its traditional Italian entrees that Columbia Corner really shines.

Most of the entrees are based on either veal or chicken and are around $11.50.  You can have your meal prepared in the marsala, francese, parmesan, scarpariello, cacciatore and other styles.

Seafood entrees—only shrimp is available—are a little more expensive, between $13 and $14.50.  You can get your shrimp prepared in the scampi, fried, oreganata and parmesan styles.

Even the appetizers are a step above what’s offered at typical pizzerias; you can’t get garlic bread or zeppoles, but you can get baked clams, stuffed mushrooms and sautéed calamari.

And if being plain is your fancy, then some old pizzeria standbys—chicken wings, burgers and garlic knots—are always available.

Though the prices at Columbia Corner are already low, a few specials during the week also make the place more attractive.

Wednesday is pasta night at the restaurant; you can get various pastas—from baked ziti to stuffed shells to pasta with spinach and sausage—for only $6.99 with salad and a piece of cheesecake.

On Mondays, you can get a large pie, for pick-up only, for $5.99.

— Shams Tarek

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