Restaurant Review

Where Nice People Serve Jerk

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Issue Date 5/16/03

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JJ Jerk Center
114-08 Merrick Boulevard
St. Albans, NY
718-297-5620

Cuisine: Caribbean

Hours: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Saturday; 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday

There’s a new restaurant on Merrick Boulevard that employs some of the nicest people around anywhere, though you wouldn’t know it by its name.

The JJ Jerk Center — a Caribbean restaurant a block south of Linden Boulevard that opened two months ago — attracts many with its bright new awning and interesting name.

Of course anyone walking by would know that the name refers to the popular Caribbean spicy sauce used on many of the restaurant’s meat dishes.

The restaurant’s motto, “For All Your Jerk Needs,” should give it away for anyone still wondering.

And the restaurant itself isn’t the only thing at 114-08 Merrick Blvd. with a great name.

The restaurant’s chef, who wouldn’t tell his given name, said he’s known by everyone as “Sweet Daddy Donald.”

And where does someone get a name like that?

“Because I was cookin’ and the food was so nice,” Sweet Daddy said of his christening in Haiti. “Someone said, ‘Man, I gotta give you a name.’  And it stuck on me.”

A warm and friendly guy, Sweet Daddy has 15 years of restaurant experience, starting in his birth country of Jamaica.  He started his own restaurant back home called Sweet Daddy and hopes to open one of the same name here in Southeast Queens.

And how’s Daddy’s food?

Sweet.

The most popular item on the JJ (named after owners John and Jacko) menu, Daddy said, is the jerk chicken.  Jerk pork and any other chicken item sells well, too, he said.

Sweet Daddy’s jerk sauce is a real treat.

It packs a punch — not only is it spicier than most jerk recipes, but its got a nice tangy edge to it, too.  All in all, it’s quite flavorful and interesting.

The restaurant’s menu is pretty straightforward, covering all the dishes you’d expect from a smart Caribbean restaurant.

Including the jerk items there are just over a dozen entrées that cost between $5 and $9, including classics like ackee or callaloo with saltfish, curried meats, oxtail, cow foot and stewed peas.  Stewed, steamed or fried fish and shrimp are also available for a few dollars more.

Everything is a little cheaper between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., when slightly smaller lunch specials are available.  All dishes come with vegetables, rice and a choice of either plantains, dumplings or yams.

The restaurant also has a small bakery section and—a remnant from the fast food joint that used to occupy the space—an ice cream freezer with a rotating cast of eight flavors.

With catering services available and upcoming delivery service, it’s hard to find a nicer place than JJ Jerk Center.

— Shams Tarek

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