Just Squares
244-35 Merrick Blvd., Rosedale 525-9243

Cuisine: Pizza and Italian dishes

Hours: Open: 7 days from 11 a.m.

Sometimes you’re so used to the landmarks in your community that you see them without noticing them. They’ve melded into the landscape. J & S Pizzeria is one such place.

Nestled on a large lot across the street from County Line Lanes, the bowling alley on the Rosedale/Valley Stream border, the eatery has been serving up tasty Italian treats to the community for 45 years. It is a service that has become part of the memory of many residents.

According to Reginald A. Perry, a "Business Specialist" with Fleet Bank located about a mile down the street from Just Squares (J & S), the pizzeria holds quite a lot of memories for him. The pizza was great, the trip to the pizzeria was not.

"I have been eating there since I was 13 years old and living in Cambria Heights," he said. "I’m 40 years old now and it is still the best Pizza anywhere. I started going in the early 70s. They only make square pizzas and they still taste the same way, now as they did back then," he enthused.

It is a lure so strong that Perry strongly recommended my visit. I was only vaguely aware that there was a pizzeria there.

I won’t soon forget.

Baked in a rectangular (not square) pan, the crust borders perfectly on crusty and soft center. The dough is appropriately fluffy and covered with just the right amount of cheese.

Served piping hot with a Snapple or soda it hits the spot like "nobody’s business."

According to Joe Piazza, son of the eatery’s founder, the secret to their success can be found in the ingredients themselves.

"We use high-quality ingredients plus experience," said Piazza. "That’s what we do here."

Although they also serve entrees such as linguine with red or white clam sauce ($8), egg plant Parmesan (8.75) and meatball and sausage and pepper sandwiches, it is the pizza that diner after diner was ordering while I observed.

"J & S used to stand for Joe and Sal’s," said Piazza. "But when my father took it over we kept the initials and renamed it Just Squares."

Just Squares — a memorable pizzeria.