Restaurant Review

An Old Tradition Made For Today

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Issue Date 5/2/03

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Millennium Food Court
181-12 Hillside Avenue
718- 297-7800

Cuisine: Continental 

Hours: 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day

For a great gyro on the run, it’s hard to find a better place than the new Millennium Food Court.

The restaurant’s name is an oxymoron —the first part evokes images of the future, while the latter recalls the cafeterias of old, which went the way of the dinosaur after fast food chains like McDonalds put them out of favor.

But rather than being an awkward contradiction, the restaurant is a model of convenience.

The two-month-old pizzeria-deli-diner-bakery, sitting at an angle to Hillside Avenue with red, white and blue flags telling the neighborhood of its arrival, delivers in the neighborhood — it’s at 181st Street — and is open for as long as most people can expect to find themselves on Hillside Avenue (6 a.m. to 11 p.m.).

Ahsana Borna, the friendly girl who keeps shop during weekday afternoons, said that gyros are the most popular item on the Millennium menu.  Pizza and deli-style sandwiches do well, too.

The gyros are great treats.  They’re lovingly prepared — that’s not a slogan; something about them just tells you they’re so — and taste great.  The meat is firm; the sauce is nice and cool; the lettuce and tomatoes are fresh.  You can’t go wrong.

The menu is varied and everything is very affordable.

Filling breakfast specials and sandwiches are all under $4.75.  You can get almost any combination of eggs, meat, cheese and bread you can imagine, including coffee and home fries on the side.

A small bakery section takes care of the pastries and breads.  Get a cup of coffee and you’re good to go.

For those needing a fried-food-fix, the appetizer menu has mozzarella sticks, garlic knots, zeppoles, onion rings and fried zucchini.

Millennium’s pizza, its second-most popular item according to Borna, is available by the slice, pie, or—not uncommon but unique in New York pizzerias—personal pie sizes ($3 to $5 each).

The toppings lean on the restaurant side more than the basic pizzeria side.  You can get regular toppings, but also “Margherita” (heavy on the marinara sauce) “Bianca” (also called white pizza), “Primavera”(spinach, broccoli, zucchini, mushrooms and onions) and “Chicken Pesto” (grilled chicken breast and pesto sauce) pizzas.

Pasta dishes, including lasagna, baked ziti, ravioli and a few other standards, are all about $5.

Millennium is a diner and a deli, too, with a full complement of burgers and hot and cold sandwiches, all prepared to order and under $5.

The restaurant is brand new, but it’s already popular in the neighborhood, with many regulars from local schools, the HIP offices across the street and other nearby businesses.

With its street-level conveniences and more formal services like corporate accounts and catering, Millennium Food Court should, like its name implies, offer a classic food experience for a long time to come.

— Shams Tarek

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