Restaurant Review

Spanish-American On Jamaica Avenue

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Issue Date 7/11/03

Click Here For Dining Guide

Perez Restaurant
217-19 Jamaica Avenue,
Queens Village
718- 776-0673

Cuisine: Spanish

Hours: 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., Monday to Saturday

There’s a casual mid-sized restaurant in Queens Village that’s as appropriate for just hanging out as it is for good Spanish and American food.

Perez Restaurant, on Jamaica Avenue between 217th and 218th Streets, has just under 50 seats in two rooms separated by a swinging half-door.

There’s a television always going with one of the local Spanish-language stations, and the staff is friendly and attentive in the best way; you don’t notice they’re there, but they’re aware of your needs.

Run out of napkins?  They’re there.  Need some more water?  They’re there.  Sitting at the diner-style counter, life is even better.

There’s a jukebox in the restaurant’s rear dining room, filled with Spanish-language CDs.  Nothing was spinning during a recent mid-week visit, but the big room is a perfect space for parties with music.

Another thing that makes Perez a great place to kick back and relax is that unlike most take-out and delivery-friendly restaurants, there’s a large selection of beers to enjoy with (or without!) a meal.

Like at a good bar, some regulars at the restaurant don’t even have to order.  As soon as they sit down, their favorite brew is served.

With the Queens Village Long Island Railroad station right across the street, Perez is a great place to stop in for a cold one and dinner to go before heading home.

In another diner-like offering, Perez serves its breakfast foods any time of the day.  The breakfast menu is more Spanish than American, being heavy on meat, eggs and fried stuff.  Hamburgers and cheeseburgers, oddly, are also on the breakfast menu.

But oh, is breakfast at Perez cheap . . . and good.  Two eggs with sausage, ham or bacon, toast, home fries and coffee is just $2.50 and classic greasy-spoon.

There’s a big sandwich menu, also big on heavy meats.  All are under $4.50.

The restaurant’s platos calientes, or “hot platters,” are also heavy on meats, and can be interesting for people not familiar with Spanish food.  Hen is differentiated from chicken (both $5), and you can also order pig’s feet, ox tail stew and goat stew.

The most expensive hot platter is the shrimp, at $9.  All are served with rice and beans, mashed potatoes, fried plantains or vegetables.

Also exotic on the menu is an octopus salad, at $10.

For a great dessert at Perez, try one of their natural shakes: papaya, mamey, mango, vanilla and fresa.  All are $2.50.

Perez does free delivery in its neighborhood for orders over $8.50.  Another thing to know about the restaurant is that its offerings aren’t fixed; you can often get things not printed on the menu, like the fried chicken on a recent visit.

— Shams Tarek

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