Restaurant Review

Sandwich King
Does More Than Sandwiches

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Issue Date 8/8/03

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Sandwich King
88-10 Parsons Blvd., Jamaica
718-297-4686

Cuisine: Hispanic

Hours: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Thursday and Sunday; 7 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday

 

It calls itself Sandwich King, but the small Hispanic restaurant on Parsons Boulevard at 88th Avenue may rule in at least a couple more categories.

The restaurant’s South American specialties are what make it really shine.  Sandwich King may have the best tacos on this part of Parsons Boulevard, in fact.

The small but filling treats are prepared in a traditional, homestyle way that won’t be familiar to people used to going to American restaurants or—the taco gods forbid—places like Taco Bell.

These tacos are soft shelled, don’t have any cheese and are heavy on onions and other fresh chopped vegetables.  There’s little sauce to speak of.

The chicken is homestyle, too; the shredded dark meat is sometimes still attached to the bone, and you’ll have to do some sorting before trying to chew.  Steak is another option.

The reward for tackling this healthy $2.25 snack is an acquired taste that can easily become a daily habit.

An assortment of tamales made with chicken or ribs, some pupusas (a kind of South American dumpling) and various South American soups round out the starters.

For a nice complete South American meal, try the affordable entrée menu of grilled or stewed chicken or steak, served with a classic side of rice and beans.

The small restaurant with seating for less than 20 is a little like a diner in atmosphere; all sorts of South American flags are hung on the wall, a jukebox keeps the air pulsing, smoke from the grill fills the room and many of the customers seem to be regulars.

Also in that diner tradition, breakfast can be ordered all day long and sandwiches and burgers form the core of the menu.

Prices are typically lower than the chrome and neon diners most Americans are used to seeing here.

A great deal for breakfast is in the specials menu, which at its finest offers two eggs any style, a side of meat, potatoes, toast and a beverage for only four bucks.  Sandwich King is sure to give the nearby fast food burger chain a run for its money.

Living up to its name, the restaurant offers a slew of hot and cold sandwiches, all under $5.  The BLT on toast, at $3, Philly cheese steak, at $5 and the $4.50 sausage, pepper and onion hero are all great choices.

The burger menu is basic but full of combinations; the most elaborate concoction, the pizza burger with lettuce, tomato and fries, is only $5.75 and a great choice.

For a great side—or meal, depending on your appetite—try the restaurant’s Wings of Fire, served with blue cheese.  Seven pieces are $4; 14 are $7 and 25 are $11.

With a small Greek and salad menu, a selection of homemade South American shakes made with tropical fruits and very friendly service, it’s hard to go wrong with Sandwich King.

Shams Tarek

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