Restaurant Review

B-To-B Roti For You And Me

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Issue Date 6/27/03

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Shobhana’s Roti Shop
172-20A Jamaica Ave., Jamaica
718- 291-5577

Cuisine: Guyanese

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
Monday to Saturday

Shobhana’s Roti Shop is a level above its competition — and that’s not just because you have to climb a flight of steps to go inside.

The 14-month-old Jamaica Avenue restaurant, which seats only six, is so good at its namesake bread that it does more business in catering and wholesale business than it does in walk-up sales.

What’s most impressive about Shobhana’s is that it sells a lot of roti to other Caribbean restaurants, especially out in Long Island.

“There are restaurants that don’t know how to make their own roti,” said co-owner Liz Shivrattan, who helps run the family business with her sisters.  She acknowledges being flattered about letting competitors pass her food off as their own.

The roti at Shobhana’s really is a treat.  It’s dry and fluffy, making it a perfect complement to the denser curried meats.

The most popular item for in-store customers at Shobhana’s is curry chicken, according to Shivrattan.  The $5 dish is filling and bright with flavors, mostly spicy ones.

Ask which are the other more popular items on the restaurant’s menu, and the owners will name about half of the other items offered, making it hard to quantify or rank the food.  What we can conclude is that the food is great.

Shobhana’s is mainly a Guyanese restaurant; while you can still find Caribbean dishes like jerk chicken or oxtail at the place, they don’t dominate the menu like at some less country-specific places.

Accordingly, the kitchen at Shobhana’s offers to serve any Guyanese dish you ask for, as long as you give 24 hours’ notice beforehand.

The prices are extremely reasonable.  All the appetizers are $2 or less, and the most expensive entrée is the large order of souse (cow feet; $7.50)

Other popular entrées besides curried chicken are the duck, fish and oxtail prepared the same way, as well as the baked or fried chicken, beans and rice with hot wings and a spicy shrimp dish.

The plain roti, nothing but bread at $1.25 for a big rolled-up piece, is also a hot item on the menu.  Specialized rotis, like those made with cassava, lentil or potato, also sell well.

There are seven kinds of soups, with the $2.75 beef barley selling the best.

The restaurant doesn’t offer a lot of choices for desert, but homemade Guyanese drinks, at $3, are a refreshing treat.  Most popular are a fruit juice and “mauby,” made from tree bark.

With its elevated location above Jamaica Avenue and its elevated status in the realm of Southeast Queens roti, the owners at Shobhana’s must feel good to be on top.

– Shams Tarek

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