Restaurant Review

Southern Tastes In A Cyber Space

Thirst Quencher’s Cyber Cafe
216-18 Jamaica Ave.,
Queens Village, 740-6678

CUISINE: Southern

HOURS: Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Tues. 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Sunday 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

CATERING: Yes.

PARKING: Curbside

CASH ONLY: Temporarily

WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes

Amidst the flurry of shoppers, commuters, and visitors in the heart of Queens Village is a warm and friendly retreat of traditional southern comfort with techno updates.

Upon entering the café, diners feel at home even before tasting the hearty fare when they sit on plump leather couches with a selection of magazines at their fingertips.

Then they can click onto one of the two state-of-the art computers with high-speed access and available printer.

Soft lights and dressed tables were the next feel of comfort, until owner, Dealia Gwaltney explained that her way of cooking and her way of life are intertwined.

"I was always the cook in the family," she said, "so when I retired from State civil service in 1997, I wanted a new millennium venture centered around old-style southern cuisine."

And since May of last year — with her daughter and partner, Michelle — she cooks traditional breakfast varieties, including sage sausage, grits and gravy, pork bacon, eggs, and old fashioned Johnny cakes, while her son, Michael, waits tables, and oversees marketing and technology.

My companion and I left the lunch choices to Gwaltney, who suggested the house favorites, hearty beef stew and yellow rice with carrots and potatoes ($5.99 lunch), and barbeque baby backed ribs ($9.99 dinner).

Both selections were tender and savory, well presented, generously apportioned, and served with fresh corn bread.

"The secret is in the sauce," Gwaltney confided. "I use sun-dried tomatoes as part of the stock for my beef stew, and natural herbs with a touch of mild crushed pepper for the ribs."

All foods are prepared with natural herbs and spices and luncheon specials at $5.99 include turkey wings, chili, pepper steak, and baked chicken, all served with rice. Sandwiches and fish selections are available.

In addition to traditional southern dinner choices, sides include macaroni and cheese, collard greens, candied yams, and the chef’s special herbed string beans.

But, the impossible to resist desserts sitting on the long seating counter called to us, so we choose the fresh pineapple coconut cake with vanilla frosting ($3) before it was snatched up by other diners, and the sinful double chocolate fudge cake ($2).

With soft jazz from the the 32 inch music/TV screen, the Thirst Quencher’s Cyber Cafe is on my list of recommended new spots around Queens.

– Arlene Lewis

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